Discover the perfect shave from the hand of Juanjo Ruzafa
Juanjo Ruzafa, distinguished with the title of best Spanish barber 2017, is one of Salerm Cosmetics’ regular collaborators and one of the ones you like best. There’s no one better than him to give us a masterclass in shaving. Attention hipsters, sharpen your blades!
Who better than Juanjo Ruzafa to show us the tips and steps to follow for a top shave. Here the barber answers our questions, so take note!
Which is the best tool for shaving?
On a professional level, as a barber, Juanjo has no doubts; he prefers the blade and chooses the one to use according to the type of skin and facial hair. For home use you can either use a disposable blade or, if you have sensitive skin, an electric razor.
How does skin and facial hair type influence the chosen shaving method?
In the case of sensitive skin you need to take special care, using a blade can cause irritation, and if the blade is used against the grain, you’re likely to end up with an unpleasant burning sensation and redness.
If the facial hair is fine and we go in too close, we’re likely to find small cysts forming which can cause small infections and/or spots. We tend to go in very close when, in the majority of cases, it’s not necessary. When shaving, the timing can make a real difference too; it’s not the same shaving fresh, relaxed morning skin, as it is shaving last thing in the evening.
Which are the essential products needed to achieve the perfect shave?
In the barber shop it’s essential to have a shavette or straight razor. It’s not easy to use but the result makes the effort worthwhile. At home a disposable razor is the most practical option.
Then if we’re talking about products that get the skin ready for shaving there are various options but a shaving soap, mousse or gel is essential, and for after shaving an alcohol-free aftershave to moisturize and repair the skin.
What’s the difference between a wet and dry shave?
A dry shave would be done with an electric razor which doesn’t require any preparation but does need some aftershave care with a moisturizing cream, and the wet shave is done with a blade so first the skin must be made ready by softening the hair with a hot towel, followed by a few drops of oil to lather with a brush or apply a clear gel.
Then we slide the blade over the area to be shaved until it’s perfectly smooth then remove any soapy remains with a hot towel which dilates the skin’s pores. We follow up by massaging the skin with a moisturizing cream before applying a cool towel to close the skin’s pores and dry off any remaining moisture to finish off the shaving ritual.
Should we always follow an order when we shave?
The answer to that is yes. Before applying the foam or clear gel, we need to clean the face well. Then create a lather with soap or shaving gel and bein work on the sides, lower neck, goatee and, lastly the mustache area. This order will allow the foam to have more time in contact with areas where hair is most dense, making shaving of these areas easier.
In which direction should we shave: with growth or against the grain?
If you want the shave to be a pleasant experience and you don’t want your skin to suffer it’s best to avoid shaving against the grain, this way we won’t leave any areas irritated or bleeding.
How long should it take to shave?
At the salon it should ideally take around 30 minutes and this includes all of the steps in the ritual which we commented here above.
What’s coming our way in the way of facial hair trends over the coming months?
Short, well defined beards and Great Gatsby style mustaches are set to become strong trends.
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